Cairo, Illinois, once a town of promise. Today it’s all but abandoned.

Places where time behaves strangely: Locations where time doesn’t follow a linear progression, creating a sense of disjointedness and detachment from conventional reality”. -Stephen King

Trip one.

I’d never heard of Cairo, pronounced Kay-ro, until I came across a YouTube video. Being a photographer and explorer of all things abandoned my curiosity was sparked. I contacted Jay Farrell, my fellow explorer, photographer to set up a road trip to Cairo. Our first trip to explore Cairo was in the tail end of December 2024. The sky was a mix of sunshine and occasional cloud coverage with just enough rainfall left on the ground to add a moody vibe to the day. We crossed the Ohio and then into the town itself. Desolation. That was the first word to come to mind as we entered Cairo. Building after building was run down, damaged, burned, collapsing and many others were already in piles. There were plenty of empty lots that had the faded outlines of buildings that were no more. We passed through Cairo, and were left with a feeling of wonder. We were in what had once been a thriving town and was now a honey pot for those who explore abandoned places.

“There’s no gas stations in Cairo. Best get that and anything else you may need before going back”. This was the word of warning we received at a Dollar General located not far from Cairo. From what we’d already seen, Jay and I could believe it. Across from the Dollar General was a vacant lot filled with debris. Broken toys, trash, tires, and a run down trailer sat upon the lot and in my opinion was a fitting starting point.

A little further on down the road we stopped at another empty lot, and while we wanted to check out a boarded up building near what had to have once been a gas station at one point, but neither of us had dressed in high waders. The lots where we stood were water logged and overgrown. While it wasn’t exactly cold, it was chilly. The thought of losing a shoe to the swampy ground just wasn’t at all appealing.

Have you ever been on a roadtrip looking for abandoned places? You drive slowly when you’re on the hunt. Here we were surrounded by the abandoned and we were still driving slowly. You’ll never get the true feel of exploring by driving fast. To one side of the main highway we spied a secondary road and took it where we came across two antique firetrucks, an empty motel. and more.

I imagine at one point this might have been a charming motel. A now filled in pool sat to one side, while the roof had collapsed. Impromptu skylights gave the remaining rooms a gloomy cast.

Yes, the office door was wide open but carry a clerk was to be found.

Wait, the motel had a few remaining guests. I don’t think they bothered with calling for room service.

A stone’s throw from the motel sat what appeared to be a still functioning auto repair shop, and a curious looking collection of lights posts.

“We’re on the road to nowhere” – The Talking Heads. Yes, that song popped into my head while standing in front of this strange passage.

Once we’d reentered Cairo we immediately drove by another empty motel. It had fared no better than the Garden Inn.

I doubt the last occupant left a good YELP review.

Parking. That was an issue but not for the same reasons that might be in more populated cities. In Nashville the biggest problem with parking is the lack of places to park, and the outrageous prices that accompany for profit parking lots. No, here is Cairo there was plenty of places to park, too many places, really. What were the odds that our vehicle would not be vandalized and or stolen? How far could we wander off from the car? Turns out, this was not worth worrying about. We spent hours in Cairo, walking around and not once were we or our vehicle accosted by anyone. Once we felt secure as far as leaving the car alone we were better able to get lost in photographing and exploring Cairo.

These gilded streets were paved in pyrite

Cairo is a shame. At one point the town was prosperous, and beautiful. And there have been attempts to bring life back into Cairo. There are boulevards where hand laid bricks replaced asphalt. Businesses whose entrances are decorated with Art Deco tiles. Iron light posts are plentiful, and many still work. But the businesses are vacant, or demolished, and the light posts illuminate empty roads, sidewalks and lots. The emptiness of Cairo, the lack of people, or purpose is palpable. Walking the streets of Cairo makes one feel like they’ve stepped into some type of ghost world, and if one is not careful, you may become another ghost in a dead town full of them. Take the Gem theatre for instance. Its beautiful marque looks fresh enough that you’d not be surprised to see it light up! To watch the bulbs shine and pulsate rhythmically. But the boarded up doors say otherwise. The gigantic fissure that bisects the Gem’s wall proclaim the theatre’s death, hell, an enormous tree is growing out of that fissure.

The alley running next to the Gem Theatre.

The fissure is hard to miss.

Yes, a person can and many have walked right into the breached wall. Nature is relentless

Next door is the defunct Chamber of Commerce. The door to the Chamber of Commerce sits wide open, debris can be easily be seen from the sidewalk. And across the street? Across the street are the remains of some of the buildings I had mentioned, the ones with Art Deco tile decor laid into their entrances.

What caused the death of Cairo, Illinois? There were a few factors, but the biggest of them was its inherent racism. Don’t worry, I’m not about to start banging on about racism. This isn’t that kind of a blog. No, my blog is a POV of my experience in Cairo. However, Between Two Rivers is an excellent and detailed explanation on how racism destroyed Cairo, you can click on the link to watch it, which I strongly suggest you do. https://youtu.be/Ita42KgBY-8?si=HNURA1eWnzo-dJzp if you have the stomach for it. If anything Cairo and the its documentary could be seen as a cautionary tale for the US itself.

I hope that if you’ve read this far that you have enjoyed the trip so far. I’ll be following this up with images from the Cairo waterfront, as well as images from some of the houses and more. In the meantime I’d also like to bring attention to my book, Forgotten Tennessee. It’s available in bookstores, and of course amazon. Click on the link to order. https://a.co/d/5z9S5aq

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Greenback Castle, where demons and saints are in the very walls.

I was speechless, and that doesn’t happen often.

On a Sunday afternoon Jay Farrell, Evan Allen and myself had just finished up shooting at a derelict Powered Coating factory in Maryville, TN. Evan asked if we wanted to see Greenback Castle? We had no idea what Greenback Castle was but what the Hell, let’s go! Back on the highway we’e all shooting the breeze over abandos and having fun. The Area we’re in is a mix of pretty nice homes and businesses and places that if they aren’t abandoned they should be.

Swinging a left off the highway we find ourselves on winding road made up of sudden dips and rises. Eventually we start seeing signs for Greenback Chapel, and Greenback House. Evan tells us we’re getting close. As we approach a dirt and rock road tot he right we slow down and carefully begin to travel down one rutted and rough road that the County has forgotten to up. To our right we see unbroken woods, the tree limbs slightly barren from the Winter. On our right? Well, let me tell ya, those houses were as rough, and washed out as the road we were traveling upon. The wood siding of the houses were more grey and brown (stains) than white, and more than a few boards were canted to one side. We’d gone about a hundred yards or more when we came out of the drive and found ourselves upon a green grassy area for us to park. Directly ahead of us was what looked to be an actual castle with turrets, walls, and ramparts. My jaw may have fallen a bit. This is Greenback Castle.

From left to right I was to find myself enchanted.
I loved the back lighting from the sunset.
Oh, this was so cool.

Lucky for us we’d shown up at the beginning of sunset so I got a few quick, wonderful shots of the castle backlit. I was however worried how long the light would last. So, with the initial awe over with we spread out. Evan immediately located the man who built Greenback Castle Floyd “Junior” Brown. As Evan went over to press the flesh Jay and myself wandered around the front of the castle wall to shoot the oddities that were everywhere. In the lawn there were monuments to God. Toy Soldiers stood at one corner and a space ship, and a canon at other points on the lawn.

Standing at attention!
All across the lawn these little shrines stood alone.

We hadn’t even entered the castle and I was in photo heaven. I walked up to the wall and spied numerous leavings by visitors, as well as knick knacks put there by Junior himself. After 30 some years there was quite a collection.

“Wait, a sec are there figurines and such hurried in the wall”? Yes, there were. I was fascinated all over again. This was a sensation I’d be hit with numerous times as I shot the castle.

Having introduced us to Junior, Junior began telling us about the Castle and himself. I’d like to say I hung on every word, but I was too entranced by the castle and got lost in shooting. While my companions walked and talked with Junior, I went and lost myself in shooting. Stepping through the main entrance to Castle Greenback was like stepping into a mini Twilight Zone. Each room, each nook, every surface had its own tale. The story told by each was in my opinion open to interpretation by the viewer.

Enter, but bring no ill intent!
The colors and textures alone captivated my eyes.
The Buddha and the clown look on.
I can only guess where all the sea shells came from.

Once inside I got a better idea of the scope of the Castle’s size. Like any true castle it’s walls were the first to be completed, thus far only one wall was up. Hey, I was still impressed, the one wall, turrets, and rooms were all done by Junior, one guy. Honestly I can’t imagine the cost or the amount of commitment that was needed to do this much. Sea shells, plastic toys, colored glass and more were physically embedded in the walls here inside in a dazzling array. Was this madness? Whimsy? Religious fervor? Junior claimed that the images of Saints were in the walls, demons had been trapped in the walls as well. Was this artistic genius. I really don’t know.

This must have taken so much time and patience. Its all random, but it fit together too.
The path forward is looked upon by the spirits of ancient Egypt!
It just kept getting more and more surreal.

In an inner courtyard a cross is adorned with a rich, vibrant robe. It sits amongst a Pet Cemetery. Buried there are over a dozen rescue dogs that Junior had taken in over several decades, it looked peaceful, not creepy. This surprised me because I really have found most pet cemeteries to be very creepy. I don’t know if I should blame my imagination, or Stephen King.

A dog’s life has to end like any other, This is as peaceful a place to land up as any.
Yes, each headstone bears a hand carved name.
I’m not a religious person. I can not say this is a Holy place for me at least but it’s tranquility was undeniable.

I stepped away from the cemetery and returned to the path to begin my exploration of the inner chambers of Greenback Castle. I made my way towards the voices of my companions, and our host Junior who was telling them about the time the FBI had come to see the images of Saints and Devils trapped in the Castle wall. Stepping into one small hall just off the path led me to a small courtyard where a Devil was held prisoner. I don’t know if there actually was one or not, but there was a mini castle tower in one corner, and what looked like the back of a fireplace with a coat of arms too. I found the doll at the bottom to be a bit offsetting.

Sitting in a corner almost as if it were there to guard the enclosure. stood a small tower.

At the base of the fireplace lay an offering? Was there a demon or a devil inside the doll?

I stood there a bit, then shook off the feeling of the place and went on to shoot more a little further down from this haunted feeling space. Through an arch and back on to the path I made my way to the tower. The tower’s small courtyard was quite a bit different from much of what I’d seen so far. The walls of the tower were bright, almost festive and drew my eyes further up to the tower’s roof. I stood there for a bit and noticed that the roof wasn’t finished and with that I stepped inside. In the middle of the rounded base stood a small column, and atop it a small house, whilst to the left a darkened passageway beckoned. But I held off going into the passageway. Instead I went up the stairs after passing a few words with Ethan. On up the curved stairwell I went once again taking note of the strong and vibrant colors on the wall. At the top of the stairs I could see where the floor was still being worked on and the roof itself needed to be finished. The evening light poured over it all.

The bright orange was a welcome change to the overall brick color.
The courtyard to the tower was actually quite nice.
I loved the bold and vibrant colors going up to the tower.
I made it to the top but opted not to step onto the floor.
Oh, look at the view on the way down.

Standing at the bottom of the stairs I decided I had to check out the dark passageway leading into the Wall’s interior. “Gloomy” is the best word that can describe the room I found myself in, but it wasn’t creepy. I decided I’d found myself in some sort of root cellar. Jars, roots and such hung down from the ceiling, dust motes danced in the waning light, which in turn weakly outlined more jars.

Noooo, not creepy at all.
I had to really hold my breath to capture these two images.
I’ve no idea what were in the jars, give me your thoughts.

End of Part One.